June 2006:

June is often referred to by locals as the 'Hidden Season' to describe the unexpected fine weather for this time of year. And once again weather predictions were queried as we experiences magnificent clear warm days though admittedly the evening did become cool. There was even a balmy spell as we had a few days of warm Berg-winds allowing the wearing of T-shirts and shorts while the rest of the province wrapped up. There were not many long trails, but we had plenty days hikes. A highlight during an outing to Robberg Peninsula in Plettenbergbay was looking down at a Great White shark from the cliff trail as it swam past the seal colony. On a Robberg outing on the 24th we were treated to a spectacular performance of breeching, tail slapping and skyhopping by Humpback whales, heralding the long awaited arrival of these gentle leviathans.A rare fortunate sighting of a Subanarctic Skua was indicative that the whales were not the only visitors from the polar regions to our shores. A day hike in the Diepvalle forest had it's share of excitement as we stumbled across evidence of elephants feeding on tree ferns. While canoeing close encounters with birds provided memorable moments on the local watercourses birds seemed undeterred by our silent approach. It was interesting to see how some species 'harvested' late afternoon heat by fluffing up their tail feathers, a practice which almost doubled the visual size of the Dabchicks.Forest birds were quieter, though some species became inquisitive when 'called' to confirm a sighting. The cold evenings proved too much for the spider communities and very few webs were seen during the month. There were a few species of butterflies in the dune scrub and clusters of spiny caterpillars eating the Rhus spp. Most remarkable was the clarity of the sea water, a clear turquoise providing the ideal conditions for SCUBA and snorkeling so long as you had suitable diving suits. Towards the end of the month the floral colour began a transition from the warm tones of reds to the brighter vibes of yellow. In all, a splendid and tranquil month.

 

 

May 2006:

May was a mixture of clear days and cooler temperatures with nights getting very cool. This is always a time of year which is ideal for photography and when sunsets and sun rises at this latitude are at their best. The air is clear and the colours of the vegetation are sharp providing perfect opportunities for landscape photography. The prevailing winds set into south westerlies which moved the beach sand, filling in two areas which had become rocky, making for easier walking around the outcrops. The change in winds also caused a drop in sea water temperatures with the resultant die off of warm water fish, washed down from the Natalian coast by the Mozambican current, which had become resident in the summer months.During the summer months, tropical fish enthusiasts delight in swimming in the rock pools along the coast in search of some rare glimpses of these species.May was definitely a month for birders, especially for riverine species. Most species permitted a close approach to them before becoming agitated with being observed. At the venue at Goukamma Nature Reserve a juvenile Fiscal Shrike has learnt that the braai grid offers rich picking in the morning and is an entertaining companion at breakfast.The area of the control burn in the Goukamma reserve has benefited from the April rains and resprouting of some Rhus spp. is evident. Grasses and Restios and ferns are among the first vegetation to grow back covering the almost lunarlandscape with a shimmer of green.The tranquility and the seclusion of the beaches were evident this month with the best part of two days walking without encountering anyone else on the beaches, an ideal escape for those wanting nothing but the ocean and the sea cliffs for company. Sightings of dolphins increased dramatically this month with spectacular viewing of schools hunting, surfing and somebreathtakingaerobatics.It is always astounding to watch a school swim past behind the back breakers, and then as if they sense an audience, move into the breakers and start surfing.It is with eager anticipation that we now await the arrival of the whales for their winter visit to our shores. In the second week of May the Sedgefield Estuary mouth opened as a result of the rising water levels in Swartvlei from the April rains. This is a crucial ecological event as it liberates esturine fish stock to the sea. The opening and closing of the mouth is a natural event, a combined result of wind direction, current flow, sea temperatures and rainfall. The past closing of the mouth has been one of the longest duration's as a result of the low rain fall experienced in the region. Fish entering the estuary spawn in the reed beds and the fry and fingerlings havea safe environment to grow before returning to the sea. As such, the process is a natural method of balancing the fish stocks.

April 2006:

This past April definitely has to rate as one of the mostvaried months experienced on the Gardenroute Trail to date.Two spates of rain stimulated the fungal growth in the forest, with mushrooms and brackets fungi growing in proliferation.The opposite side of the rain was that some days were spent walking in it, though with the correct apparel the walking could still be enjoyed. This April also had plenty of wind which hampered canoeing stages on both the Serpentine and the Goukamma rivers, allowing some investigation of the alternative walking routes on the Pied Kingfisher trail. The benifit of the varied weather was that the region received much needed rain to alleviate thedry spell experienced through thesummer season with the subsequent increased flow of the rivers and the filling of the wetlands. In general, the temperatures were slightly lower than historical records. Both the Touw and the Sedgefield estuaries reached levels suitable for opening the mouth to the sea. The beaches started widening as sand was deposited, though one particular stretch lost plenty of sand forcing a new route of tumbled blocks of fossilized sand dune. With out a doubt the bird viewing was the highlight of the month with excellent close up sightings of four species of kingfishers, Cape Eagle owls, Water Thickknees, blue Mantled Flycatcher, African Oyster Catchers, Blacksmith Plovers, Caspian terns, Kittlitz Plovers and many more. On the 20th we we fortunate to see a fisherman land a 7ft Ragged Tooth Shark at Gerickes Point. It was an impressive sight, but I think the shark was fortunate that we were there as the fisherman returned it to the sea, albeit a little bit exhausted. There was also an impressive floral display this month with the Erica's sp transforming the landscapes to patches of red and lilac and a variety of bulbs on display. The Blombos, a strong scented bush which varies from a warm honey scent to a musty fug has been dominant in the dune fynbos. In all, while we had four seasons in one month, we also saw some of the best nature has to offer.

 

 

 

 

 

March 2006:

The Polygala's continued to flower into March and the Cape Chestnut's fruit became visible amongst the foliage. Other plants in bloom included Erica's, Candelabras and brilliant yellow Helichrysynth, s.On the banks of the Goukamma River we were privileged to see no less than 8 Water Thickknees (formally known as Water Dikkop). Nocturnal birds, their camouflage as they rested amongst the washed up flotsam was perfect until they moved when the canoes approached too close. The Giant Eagle Owls had returned to their usual roosting area after their absence while rearing chicks. The beaches had widened as sand was deposited, raising the level by a further 90cm in places. The wind was variable with daily changes between easterlies and westerlies. Fortunately the sea temperatures were warm and swimming in rivers and sea was the order of the day for the 'Gosling' group though some of Dave's exit techniques were questionable. It was a dry month with new growth in the forest wilting and dying back. The dry spell culminated in a ferocious Berg wind which blasted the Garden Route with out the usual rain which follows. Most definitely the controlled burn in the Goukamma Nature Reserve has had the most impressive impact on the scenery along the trail. The smoke pall was mushroom shaped and could be seen from Wilderness. The resulting exposed dunes have a Ansel Adams appearance, a huge monotone landscape of white and black interspersed with gray. The burn was done to reduce the amount of dead plant material and to stimulate the coastal fynbos. In 1957 the dunes were ploughed and planted out to Rookrans, an introduced Australian Acacia, to stabilize the dunes from wind erosion. Looking down at the dunes you can now see the original plough lines. The next few months will be rewarding as the new plant growth covers the dunes and the bulbs come into bloom. It is now the fourth season that that we have seen the Ghost Crabs, a global warming indicator species. They are carried down as either eggs or larvae from the eastern Cape and Natal in the warm Mozambiquian current. When they settle on the beach they dig a hole between 50cm and 70 cm in the beach sand. They are fast moving, scurrying like a shadow back to their burrows when disturbed while foraging. They have not managed to survive through the winter in the past four years.

 

February 2006:

February was once again one of those wonderful months in the Garden Route. The weather was hot, normality returned as all the schools restarted after the summer break and the flowers which the region is known for starting to bloom. Most of the fynbos, the floral kingdom for which the Cape is renowned do not flower during the height of summer, waiting instead for the approach of autumn before blooming. Of the more well known fynbos Genus's, the Protea's start flowering in February. Not a prolific genus in this region there are still some present in the coastal and dune fynbos of the Garden Route. On the trail we had some international flare with guests from Portugal, Austria, Germany and Botswana. A treat was spotting no less than 3 bushbuck while walking through Brenton-on-Sea on the 5th day. Weather was sunny and warm to hot with no rain, making it ideal to stop and swim when ever the currents permitted, a perfect break from the northern winter. While Judy guided on the trail, Mark headed to Nepal to investigate trekking routes around the Anapurna mountains.Despite the political situation in Nepal, it was possible to complete the Anapurna Circuit and the Anapurna Sanctuary routes, 300km, in 19 days. The high point was the Thurang La pass at 5416m, but it was the range of vista's of these huge mountains, the cultural experience and the diversity of geology and vegetation which were so captivating. After that, a great time was spent in Chitwain National Park riding elephants in search of the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger, with a successful rare sighting of one tiger and 7 Asian Rock Pythons. At GRT we are definitely inspired to organize a expedition to Everest Base camp and Chitwain National Park in February 2007, but till then we have plenty to look forward to on our magnificent secluded beaches in the Garden Route. Whale season is just over a month away when we can be treated to beach sightings of these gentle giants of the oceans as they visit us once again at Garden Route Trail.

Return to Top of Page