December 2006:

For us December was a fitting month to finish off a wonderful year. The temperatures were warm but not hot and the sea was warm yet refreshing. Snorkeling in the rock pools at Gericke's Point, we were privileged to see some fine specimens of octopus, rock crab and some Double Banded Butterflyfish. Yet it was the experience of watching some of the vivid rock pool life which provided many hours of entertainment. For kite flyers there were wonderful opportunities to play in the westerlies with the skies over the popular beaches a colourful choreography. For whale whale watchers, the season was greatly extended this year with sightings from Buffalo Bay made as late as the 14th December (and as late as the 26th in Hermanus). While this is exciting news for those wishing to be able to view these magnificent leviathans, it is concerning as the consensus theory is that the whales do not feed while visiting our coastal waters. Feeding is done primarily in the tropics and the Antarctic depending on the species with whales only coming to South African waters for calving and mating. This implies that the extended duration in our waters means a possible decrease in feeding time once they eventually leave. While most of nature is triggered by daylight for their various annual activities and migrations, it could be that water temperature is the trigger for the whales to leave South African waters. With warmer sea temperatures due to global warming their trigger to depart to feeding grounds could be delayed. The bird life continued to be rewarding - highlights still being the continual calls of the cuckoos and the bright flashes of the Paradise Flycatchers. For marine bird lovers the graceful flight of the Swift and Sandwich Terns were compelling veiwing. Around the 14th and 15th large numbers of Red Banded Jellyfish were washed up on the beaches. These jellyfish are predominantly from the west coast and may have been blown around to the south coast by the prevailing westerlies. Interestingly they were not preyed on by the Bullia spp when washed up and must have a substance to actively repel them. From a painful experience all parts of the jellyfish seem to be able to sting, so be wary if you see them in the sea. In Sedgefield we were fortunate enough to observe a fledgling Diderck's Cuckoo learning to fly. As the month ended a few Emerald Cuckoo's were seen been pursued by determined host birds. In the Garden Route, 2 weeks without rain is almost a drought and by Christmas Day, the lack of rain was starting to show it's effect on the vegetation making the arrival of cooler and windy conditions a welcome relief for many, especially the farming community. The popularity of our educational rock pool evening walks to Gericke's point were extremely popular over the season and conditions and tides were perfect.

November 2006:

The Garden Route has a season for every need and November supplied consistent warmth and relative windlessness with calm and clear seas. It was also the month of nesting. We were privileged to have Amanda, an avid ornithologist, on the trail. She consistently interrupted my ecological discourses to point out some nesting activity. Two highlights were spotting nests of a Green Wood-hoopoe and a Paradise Flycatcher, the latter with the male incubating, his tail towering rooster like out of the perfectly camouflaged nest. The nest was so cryptic it took Carlo the better part of 10 minutes to see it. On the second days beach stage we were fortunate enough to find a Mole Crab, a species with a normal southern range terminating along the East Cape coast. This is the second species of Crustacean which has recently colonized the Southern Cape beaches, adding to the list of global warming species identified along the trail. The beach stages were particularly rewarding with some wonderful sightings of African Black Oystercatchers in the full flourish of pairing up and nesting. Two pairs in particular have selected secure nests in the ledges of the fossilized sand dunes. For those that have previously been impressed by what I call the 'Hanging Gardens of Gerickes' will be pleased to know that we were treated to the sight of them in flower, a magenta mauve splashed against the yellow cliffs. The combination of blue skies, turquoise sea, yellow cliffs, green algae and vivid flowers provided a wealth of artistic opportunities, a challenge expertly taken up by photographer Uschi Stuart who felt that it would have been best to spend at least two days on each stage to capture every nuance of the scenery. The warm sea proved to much for Carlo to resist who made the most of the seclusion of the beaches to swim in his birthday suit. Joining him were the pods of dolphins of which the pair of Humpbacked Dolphins that previously frequented the bay at Gerickes Point have returned. More difficult to spot than the Bottlenose Dolphins due to their smaller fins and lower breaching when breathing, the pair remain in the bay and can be seen throughout the day with some patient watching. Even more exciting is the spotting of Humpback Whales off Wilderness beach on the 24th November - this is a full 10 days later than our last sighting of whales last year which have usually left our coastal waters by now. Is this another impact of global warming? Well done to Peter who waited 60 plus year to do his first hike and has decided to wait another 60 till his next!!

October 2006:

October was the start of clear waters ideal for snorkeling in rock pools. Water temperatures were warm with wonderful summer warmth. There were no trails during October which provided a great opportunity for me to explore more of the Garden Route and to tour some of South Africa. Loving the sea I spent some pleasant time snorkeling at Gerickes Point, a peninsula which the 5 day trail passes on the second day. The Plum Sea Anemones were prolific with some huge specimens. No matter what age you are it is always irrisitable to feed them with a piece of mussel or oyster and watch with fascination as the food is conveyed to the mouth by the array of tentacles. After finishing up, I walked around the peninsula and was surprised to find 8 large Cob trapped in a rock pool. They were approximately 1.2 to 1.4m long and I estimated that they weighed between 8 and 12Kg. Concerned that they would be ungamely caught I stood guard at the rock pool till high tide when they could return to the sea. I was even fortunate to swim with them and was able to approach within touching distance of them. regrettably two fish did not make it out of the rock pool and were caught by locals. Their weight : a hefty 18kgs each. Along the beach a Humpbacked Whale carcass continues to decay slowly exposing sections of the skeleton. It is the second carcass to wash up in the past year, providing an opportunity to marvel at the sheer size of these incredible creatures of the deep. In all the month was a relaxed time with comfortable temperatures for beach walking and enjoying the outdoors. After the rains of August and September the dunes and the forests are a rich green with the new growth

September 2006:

The emergence of blossoms is an universal indication of the arrival of spring. In the Garden Route there are blooms throughout the winter in the Fynbos and our forests have a few trees with vivid blossom displays. Still, it is the Cape Chestnut with hues of lilac punctuating the canopy which mark the arrival of spring. Following the wetness of August, the noticeably longer day length also indicated that we were heading into the season of summer. The new route (due to the flood damage of August) was put to the test with mixed response. All agreed that the new path through the Goukamma dunes was one of the best sections of the trail but found that it did make for a long day, especially for those less fit. But even this was negated with the magnificent vistas from the top of the dunes and the diversity of the fynbos and Milkwood dune forest flora. Sightings of whales added to the excitement of September, though it was the dolphins which captured the attention. The pair of Humpbacked Dolphins that have been absent from Gerickes point have returned adding a special aspect to lunch breaks. September also saw the inaugural Wellness Walk, the five day trail with contemplation stops and body treatments. The remote and secluded beach stages and the immersion into nature made for an ideal platform to focus on inner processes with out the distraction and routine of daily schedules. All around the impact of Augusts rain was evident in the lush growth and the prolific bird activity. The days were filled with bird song and vivid flashes as multitudes of Sunbirds darted about feeding and setting up territories. Fruit feeders filled the canopies as they harvested Milkwood berries and Star Apples. Even the monkeys appeared content with natures larder and not intent on raiding from the fruit bowls when doors were mistakenly left open. What has been evident from the third quarter of the this year is that the Garden Route is set for a wetter summer than normal and everyone should be prepared for bouts of inclement weather. While the Garden Route did not reach the warm temperatures of further north, it was pleasant to walk around in short sleeves. On a personal level it was fantastic to have Andrew and Jo, my brother and sister in law over for a visit from New Zealand so I could meet my nephews and share the Garden Route and some of the other regions of this wonderful country with them.

August 2006:

August can be summed up in one word - FLOODS. Having lived in the Garden Route for 12 years I have grown accustomed to a cycle of floods every two and a half to three years. The flood of 24th December 2004 was hailed as the most devastating, high rate of precipitation and highest flood levels, possibly the 70 year flood that town planning is based on. And then we had August 2006. Not only a deluge in the first week, but continual rain for the month. The news media played it up making it sound as if everything south of the Outeniqua mountains had been washed into the Indian Ocean. Not so! Sure, some bridges washed away, houses collapsed and there were mudslides blocking roads. But all the damage was done to construction, very little damage to nature. Mysteriously August on the booking calendar for the past few months remained empty, uncanningly so. In hindsight it was fortunate that we had no trails booked as they would have had to be kayaking or white water trails. The effect of the floods on the trail has resulted in a change in the itinerary for the third and fourth days. Access to Goukama Reserve from the Buffalo Bay side was washed away. Approximately 80m of river bank (pics left and right), the ticket office and the entrance gate structures were all washed away. This left the reserve no option but to cancel our bookings till the end of March 2007. Alternative accommodation has been found at Lake Pleasant where we will now do our bird watching canoe stage. The fourth day will start with a dune walk through the reserve and a river crossing at the river mouth of the Goukamma River. Once again the train is off line till at least the end of September, possibly later. The amazing adaptation to the rain is the increased activity of the wildlife in the region. Birds are more active as food sources abound. More water results in more insects and the vegetation is alive with birds foraging. Trees are laden with fruit attracting the fruit and seed eaters. Of the mammals, monkeys are relaxed, bushpig and porcupine ploughing up the tubers and bulbs. The honey badgers are even roaming to new areas. In July, prior to the rains, bees were swarming in the search for new hives, a month that experts maintain is when bees are dormant. So while humans value their construction losses, nature capitalizes on the results of the August rains. And once again we will have an opportunity to observe the impact into spring. This has given reason to ponder the cause. Global warming results in higher precipitation, development results in removal of ground cover with resultant runoff which is more destructive. Yet, as one drives through the region, all the destruction is linked to sites of construction. So, is it the result of more destructive weather patterns or nature highlighting the flaws in our construction?

July 2006:

July was an extension of the mid year 'Hidden Season', a term used to describe the unexpected fine weather for this time of year. Once again weather conditions were a combination of comfortably warm days interspersed with some much needed rain. The rain has filled the Touw river system making for ideal canoeing on this and the Serpentine river with glassy smooth water surfaces. An exciting event for birders is the establishment of territory for a pair of Long Crested Eagles spotted gliding over the ridges above the river. A juvenile Fish Eagle is also investigating the ridges along the river, both species being persistently harassed by White Necked Ravens. Whale sightings were a daily experience as Southern Right Whales frolicked a couple of hundred meters offshore, one special sighting of them framed by a rainbow. The seclusion and remoteness of the beaches at this time of year inspired some folk to bypass the dune forest walk so they could continue on the beach without anyone in sight and even enjoying a knee deep crossing of the Goukamma River mouth. As always, the impact of beach erosion along the route is impressive as sand is shifted by combined wind and currents leaving former sandy patches as areas of rocky passes. An intriguing find at one recently exposed location is of some apparent 'pots'. The tide was frustratingly too high to investigate but we will be returning to check out this feature - it may be fishing traps of a bygone era or a unique rock formation. This all has to be done before the sand covers it all again.The tranquility of the Goukamma accommodation has become shattered by cape weavers starting on their nest building antic. The dexterity of these birds as they build their nest hanging upside down while clutching onto two twigs is captivating to watch. The other species which are seen on the fringes are also interesting as they look for food in the building material dropped beneath the tree. At sunrise they gather in the Rhus spp waiting for a signal to start working and finish at sunset, only pausing to raid the cereal from the breakfast table. Around the fireside we had a comical cricket visit with a 'smiley' face. Usually a creature that would have most woman rushing for the insecticide, Manuela picked it up to move it out of harms way. It was a relaxed month which allowed us to recharge our batteries as we passed through the gently changing nature. It even seemed as if mother nature was taking a breather before the change of seasons ahead with birds more tolerant (except the sunbirds establishing territories) and plants looking fresh after the rain. Defiantly not the perceived month of winter anticipated.

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